Rolling across the Wisconsin prairie on way too little sleep and not enough coffee had my mind focused on the aroma of cow and how so much of the heartland unfurls like a rumpled blanket. Wisconsin makes for fun riding, but a particular kind; there are fewer banked corners but endless gentle ones to throttle through at speed. Luckily I wasn’t there alone and had Harley-Davidson staff to guide my way — and also the way of a
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